{"id":28846,"date":"2026-07-25T11:41:58","date_gmt":"2026-07-25T04:41:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/?p=28846"},"modified":"2026-07-25T11:41:59","modified_gmt":"2026-07-25T04:41:59","slug":"tweaking-traditions","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/th\/2026\/07\/25\/tweaking-traditions\/","title":{"rendered":"Tweaking Traditions\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>VERY THAI: In this periodic column, author Philip Cornwel-Smith explores popular culture and the topics covered in his best-selling books&nbsp;<em>Very Thai&nbsp;<\/em>and&nbsp;<em>Very Bangkok<\/em>. Here he revisits major Isaan festivals to see how they\u2019ve withstood being wrenched from local folk rite into national showcase.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/naga-spraying-crowd-from-rocket-float-IMG_4288-1024x768.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28882\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/naga-spraying-crowd-from-rocket-float-IMG_4288-1024x768.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/naga-spraying-crowd-from-rocket-float-IMG_4288-300x225.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/naga-spraying-crowd-from-rocket-float-IMG_4288-768x576.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/naga-spraying-crowd-from-rocket-float-IMG_4288-1536x1152.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/naga-spraying-crowd-from-rocket-float-IMG_4288-2048x1536.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Naga spraying the crowd from the end of a rocket float in the Yasothon Rocket Festival parade. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Khao Phansaa Day on 30 July opens the Buddhist rainy season \u2018lent\u2019 retreat. It heralds a spate of&nbsp;<em>tetsakan<\/em>&nbsp;(traditional festivals) across Isaan. One of the candle festivals marking Khao Phansaa, at Chokchai in Khorat, has drawn headlines for a giant wax candle being sculpted to resemble pop superstar Lisa Manobal. Last year\u2019s Nakhon Phanom Fireboat Festival, which closes&nbsp;<em>phansaa<\/em>, was promoted into an international mega-jamboree like Songkran. As local culture goes inter, are&nbsp;<em>tetsakan<\/em>&nbsp;getting diluted, debased or reinvigorated?&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0509-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6642-1024x683.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28883\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0509-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6642-1024x683.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0509-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6642-300x200.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0509-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6642-768x512.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0509-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6642-1536x1024.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0509-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6642-2048x1365.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Rocket Carriages pulled through the Yasothon parade. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">After two decades, I\u2019ve recently revisited two uproarious Isaan&nbsp;<em>tetsakan<\/em>&nbsp;\u2013 Boon Bang Fai rocket festival in Yasothon and Phi Ta Khon ghost fest in Dansai, Loei. I wanted to see their resilience in the face of sweeping change.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I also wanted to have fun. Into a typical three days, Isaan&nbsp;<em>tetsakan<\/em>&nbsp;cram in parades and partying, costumes and contests, food and music, reverence and raunch.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Yasothon-rocket-floats-IMG_3282-1024x768.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28884\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Yasothon-rocket-floats-IMG_3282-1024x768.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Yasothon-rocket-floats-IMG_3282-300x225.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Yasothon-rocket-floats-IMG_3282-768x576.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Yasothon-rocket-floats-IMG_3282-1536x1152.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Yasothon-rocket-floats-IMG_3282-2048x1536.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Traditional Yasothon rocket floats. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-firing-rockets-to-trigger-rain\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Firing Rockets to Trigger Rain<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Yasothorn hosts the biggest of many rocket festivals held over the late hot season across Isaan and Laos to spur the rain god, Phra Taen, to water the rice crop. Rockets also get fired at the end of Phi Ta Khon. It\u2019s a seasonal impulse, like gifting candles to monks to aid their study during their monastic retreat, or the northern Than Kuay Salap festivals in September that encourage monks to complete their study.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Each rocket gets an auspicious name and is blessed with garland, scarf, yantra spell and sticks of incense lit inches from the dynamite. Stalls sell mini-rockets that lads fire as a lark.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6864-1024x683.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28885\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6864-1024x683.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6864-300x200.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6864-768x512.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6864-1536x1024.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6864-2048x1365.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Rockets blessed with sacred offerings at Yasothon. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In 2006, I joined a team that made their rocket in a field workshop from plentiful parts like bamboo, glue and blue PVC water pipes. The morning after the parade, we hauled the rocket up one of the towering gantries that aim across open fields. Once the fuse gets fitted, each team withdraws to gawp as the DIY pipe launches skyward. Judges with binoculars count the minutes till it starts to drop. Pity whatever it lands on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"883\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6869-1024x883.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28886\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6869-1024x883.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6869-300x259.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6869-768x663.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6869-1536x1325.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6869-2048x1767.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">A team cheers as their rocket launches in Yasothon. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-wrestling-in-the-mud-pit\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Wrestling in the Mud Pit<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A rare failed launch gets that team dumped in a mud pit, where some wallow, getting ever more drunk on&nbsp;<em>lao khao<\/em>&nbsp;rice liquor and cheekily daubing revellers with mud. Given some past fatal explosions, I\u2019d expected even more safety this year, but the mud banks topped with barbed wire had gone, and the smaller command bunker was sheltered not by steel but canvas. The rockets seemed more reliable, which in turn reduced the mud wrestling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF7047-1024x683.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28887\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF7047-1024x683.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF7047-300x200.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF7047-768x512.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF7047-1536x1024.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0510-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF7047-2048x1365.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">A failed launch means you have to wallow in a mud pit. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-spirits-dance-for-the-buddha-s-past-life-nbsp\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Spirits Dance for the Buddha\u2019s Past Life&nbsp;<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">At Phi Ta Khon, the ponytailed shaman Chao Pho Kuan officiates the rites in his wooden house with his wife. They co-lead several processions, whether on foot, riding a model horse on the lead float or circling Wat Pornchai on a roped raft of rockets that gets lurched around by revellers dressed as scary spirits. No change there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Shaman-IMG_0737-1024x768.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28888\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Shaman-IMG_0737-1024x768.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Shaman-IMG_0737-300x225.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Shaman-IMG_0737-768x576.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Shaman-IMG_0737-1536x1152.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Shaman-IMG_0737-2048x1536.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The shaman leads a procession in Dansai, Loei. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-monstrous-mask-art-and-carnival-costumes\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Monstrous Mask Art and Carnival Costumes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Phi Ta Khon is one of many Isaan rites that celebrate the Buddha\u2019s previous incarnation, Prince Vessandorn. His return from forest exile sparked such joy that even the spirits danced. Hence the demonically fanged faces painted onto coconut sheaths that are stitched to masks made from rice-steaming baskets with pointy horns and a carved wooden nose. Over decades, their design has elevated from naive folk art to exquisite craft.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/elaborate-mask-IMG_0684-768x1024.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28889\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/elaborate-mask-IMG_0684-768x1024.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/elaborate-mask-IMG_0684-225x300.png 225w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/elaborate-mask-IMG_0684-1152x1536.png 1152w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/elaborate-mask-IMG_0684-1536x2048.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/elaborate-mask-IMG_0684-scaled.png 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Imaginative mask art in Dansai. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A rougher ogre mask made from slathering paint, mud, glue or fibres over an inverted rice steamer began in the 1990s with one man who couldn\u2019t afford to paint a proper mask. Now this style is beloved of children, or misfits wearing torn monk-like robes. Spirit costumes used to be shaggy jumpsuits of shredded old clothes. Teams today theme their outfits with creativity and wit.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/contemporary-costume-IMG_1472-3-1024x768.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28890\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/contemporary-costume-IMG_1472-3-1024x768.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/contemporary-costume-IMG_1472-3-300x225.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/contemporary-costume-IMG_1472-3-768x576.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/contemporary-costume-IMG_1472-3-1536x1152.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/contemporary-costume-IMG_1472-3-2048x1536.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Contemporary pop-style spirit costuming at Phi Ta Khon. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-ancient-hybrid-culture\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Ancient Hybrid Culture<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Candles carved like K-pop stars aren\u2019t unusual; Isaan festivals have always been hybrid. The fireboats have topical scenes, while&nbsp;<em>tetsakan<\/em>&nbsp;floats may resemble pirate ships or Max Max vehicles. Back in 2000, Phi Ta Khon masks were silvery and futuristic given the topical Y2K meme. One group wore outfits sewn from factory sheets of fake Levi\u2019s bandanas.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/hybrid-flamenco-masks-IMG_1610-3-1024x768.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28891\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/hybrid-flamenco-masks-IMG_1610-3-1024x768.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/hybrid-flamenco-masks-IMG_1610-3-300x225.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/hybrid-flamenco-masks-IMG_1610-3-768x576.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/hybrid-flamenco-masks-IMG_1610-3-1536x1152.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/hybrid-flamenco-masks-IMG_1610-3-2048x1536.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Flamenco fashion adopted by an all-girl troupe or spirits at Phi Ta Khon. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-shamanic-divination-vs-official-decree\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Shamanic Divination vs Official Decree<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Three other villages hold smaller ghost fests around this time. Back in the 1990s, processions cavorted in on foot from villages at whatever time it took in the morning cool. By 2000, that informality had been corralled by officialdom, with festival dates thereafter set by \u201cthe shaman and TAT.\u201d Participants then had to wait in lines for hours in the sun, until VIPs decanted from limousines into the new grandstand. The paraders now had to pay homage to state power, which coopted the festival\u2019s focus. Phi Ta Khon has since showcased foreign mask culture, and this year was opened for the first time by the prime minister, who attributed his election to the spirit in the mask he acquired there in 2024.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/shaman-on-rockets-IMG_1716-1024x576.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28892\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/shaman-on-rockets-IMG_1716-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/shaman-on-rockets-IMG_1716-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/shaman-on-rockets-IMG_1716-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/shaman-on-rockets-IMG_1716-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/shaman-on-rockets-IMG_1716-2048x1152.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The shaman is bounced around the temple on a raft of rockets in Dansai. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-sound-and-light-for-unity\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Sound-And-Light for Unity<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Tetsakan<\/em>\u00a0in borderlands often hold sound-and-light shows that dramatise local history as part of the national narrative, as I saw recently in Songkhla. At Dansai in 2000, a son-et-lumi\u00e8re re-enacted the alliance of Ayutthaya with a ruler of Vientiane that founded Dan Sai as a frontier garrison town settled by Thai and Lao communities known as Na-Thai and Na-Wieng.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/official-show-in-front-of-the-VIPs-IMG_4364-1024x576.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28893\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/official-show-in-front-of-the-VIPs-IMG_4364-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/official-show-in-front-of-the-VIPs-IMG_4364-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/official-show-in-front-of-the-VIPs-IMG_4364-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/official-show-in-front-of-the-VIPs-IMG_4364-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/official-show-in-front-of-the-VIPs-IMG_4364-2048x1152.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Formal dance shows in front of VIPs in the grandstand at Yasothon. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-fertility-rites-unleashed\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Fertility Rites Unleashed<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Between the Phi Ta Khon festivals of 1998 and 2000, the advent of tourism promotion tried to censor the traditional fertility rites. PR pictures still show the spirits wielding swords or guns. In reality, then and now, they brandish giant&nbsp;<em>palad khik<\/em>&nbsp;(phallic charms). Some are carved and painted; other mechanical phalli hinge back and forth, while long mock pistols have a trigger that lifts the scarlet tip. Some paraders dangle wooden&nbsp;<em>palad khik<\/em>&nbsp;on fishing lines that women with fish traps try to catch. Sacred effigies of a giant mother and father jiggle their outsize genitalia for two days until the shaman submerges the fertile couple into the river.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">This phallic joshing also features at Yasothon and other Isaan festivals. Revellers drag wheeled turtles that have bobbing glans heads, or ride mock buffalos that have boisterous undercarriage. To all except prudes, this fertility symbolism rouses laughter and saucy selfies.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/palad-khik-IMG_1604-1024x576.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28894\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/palad-khik-IMG_1604-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/palad-khik-IMG_1604-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/palad-khik-IMG_1604-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/palad-khik-IMG_1604-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/palad-khik-IMG_1604-2048x1152.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Mechanical phallic fertility objects are a crowd-pleaser at Phi Ta Khon. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-muddy-sooty-pole-stompers\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Muddy, Sooty Pole-Stompers<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Other controversial paraders in Isaan fests are groups of&nbsp;<em>khon thang bang<\/em>&nbsp;(bamboo poles-stomping people), who are slathered in mud, or blackened with cooking soot and an afro wig. Westerners misread them as racist, but they represent indigenous farmers or forest folk.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A day or two before a&nbsp;<em>tetsakan<\/em>\u2019s main event, side activities include contests for the best float, costume or beauty. Juries anoint a demure female Nang Thida and dashing male Theppabutr to lead the parade. Yasothon held an emotive contest of chanting to live music and dance. Dansai awarded prizes for best masks, with a red-carpet runway. Every festival has its speciality.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/khon-Tang-Bang-mudmen-IMG_1443-1024x768.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28895\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/khon-Tang-Bang-mudmen-IMG_1443-1024x768.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/khon-Tang-Bang-mudmen-IMG_1443-300x225.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/khon-Tang-Bang-mudmen-IMG_1443-768x576.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/khon-Tang-Bang-mudmen-IMG_1443-1536x1152.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/khon-Tang-Bang-mudmen-IMG_1443-2048x1536.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Men covered in either mud or soot are called Khon Tham Bang because they stomp poles. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-dancing-to-techno-morlam-and-sam-cha\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Dancing to Techno, Morlam and Sam Cha<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The route gets lined by stages for music and dancing, which peaks the night before the big parade, with calmer after-party. Some are\u00a0<em>rot ngan<\/em>\u00a0\u2013 trucks or buses incorporating a fold down stage and hinged speaker stacks. Music from rival stages clashes at deafening volume, and features more morlam now than in the 2000s, when Techno or sam cha ruled. Huge\u00a0<em>morlam-lukthung<\/em>\u00a0stage shows with carnivalesque dance troupes are less viable now. Singers are mostly backed by skimpily dressed dancers thrusting hips to\u00a0<em>morlam<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0508-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6039-1024x576.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28896\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0508-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6039-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0508-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6039-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0508-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6039-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0508-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6039-1536x863.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/26-0508-Yasothorn-Rocket-Fest-DSCF6039-2048x1151.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Morlam shows are now more like go-go than cabaret chorus lines. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-from-hand-loomed-textiles-to-digital-printing\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">From Hand-Loomed Textiles to Digital Printing<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Following the 1997 economic crash, the OTOP-era revival of indigenous crafts saw renewed pride in wearing hand-loomed fabrics. That\u2019s given way to synthetic T-shirts covered in lurid digital graphics \u2013 the new common outfit of rural Thailand.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Screenshot-2026-07-24-193908-1024x767.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28897\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Screenshot-2026-07-24-193908-1024x767.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Screenshot-2026-07-24-193908-300x225.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Screenshot-2026-07-24-193908-768x575.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Screenshot-2026-07-24-193908.png 1213w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Lurid digitally printed shirts are the de facto uniform of Isaan. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-performers-unmasked\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Performers Unmasked<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Costumed spirits used to be mostly young males, who\u2019d remain masked while teasing the crowd or potential sweethearts. Perhaps due to climate change or the parade being rescheduled to hotter hours, few now cover their skin in gloves and socks and many take off their masks. That reveals a fresh diversity of age and gender, including kids, women and seniors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Phi Ta Khon was an expression of place, but taking part is no longer just local. A scheme invites any Thai or foreigner to join a team, as long as they\u2019re committed to the mask and costume-making from January to June. Corporations dress staff as spirits, in the branded livery of AIS, Red Bull or Krung Thai Bank. Even the military had a troupe of troops in khaki masks. Though invited, these faux spirits do sap the authenticity and mystique. Phi Ta Khon had felt otherworldly; now it chimes with tourists hiring national costume in heritage sites. Many&nbsp;<em>tetsakan<\/em>&nbsp;feel that dilution from going mainstream.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/corporate-masks-IMG_0870-768x1024.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28899\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/corporate-masks-IMG_0870-768x1024.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/corporate-masks-IMG_0870-225x300.png 225w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/corporate-masks-IMG_0870-1152x1536.png 1152w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/corporate-masks-IMG_0870-1536x2048.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/corporate-masks-IMG_0870-scaled.png 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Corporate branding is invading the craft originality of Phi Ta Khon. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-keeping-souvenirs-handmade\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Keeping Souvenirs Handmade<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Despite new technology,&nbsp;<em>tetsakan<\/em>&nbsp;still showcase handicrafts. Souvenirs made with genuine care lend a humane, tangible quality that\u2019s highly collectable. To buy a Phi Ta Khon mask or&nbsp;<em>palad khik<\/em>&nbsp;used to require only bargaining after the parade, which still happens around Wat Pornchai, costing 2,000-8,000 THB. Veterans seem happier to sell than youngsters who treasure their early handiwork. Now stalls sell masks throughout the fest, though some bear tourist slogans. Their size, shape and fragility mean they\u2019re better sent by road than by air.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/MASKS-FOR-SALE-IMG_0710-1024x768.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28901\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/MASKS-FOR-SALE-IMG_0710-1024x768.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/MASKS-FOR-SALE-IMG_0710-300x225.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/MASKS-FOR-SALE-IMG_0710-768x576.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/MASKS-FOR-SALE-IMG_0710-1536x1152.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/MASKS-FOR-SALE-IMG_0710-2048x1536.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Masks and guitar-like palad khik, which may be for sale at the end. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-toads-by-the-roads\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Toads by the Roads<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Festivals have become key to place-making. Thai street signs brandish motifs that depict their genius loci, whether market boats in Taling Chan or old ruins in Lopburi. Masked ghosts grace signs in Dansai and many structures along the road from Loei. Yasothon has gilded rockets on signs amid myriad statues of toads from the festival\u2019s origin myth. That tale is related inside a six-storey orange toad-shaped museum, sharing a lakeside with a Naga-shaped building. At all&nbsp;<em>tetsakan<\/em>, stages and floats showcase local products, from axe cushions to watermelons.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Dansai-street-lamps-IMG_0869-768x1024.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28902\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Dansai-street-lamps-IMG_0869-768x1024.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Dansai-street-lamps-IMG_0869-225x300.png 225w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Dansai-street-lamps-IMG_0869-1152x1536.png 1152w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Dansai-street-lamps-IMG_0869-1536x2048.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/Dansai-street-lamps-IMG_0869-scaled.png 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Ghost-themed lamps in Dansai. Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-courting-a-new-audience\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Courting a New Audience<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Besides urban Thais, ever more foreigners flock to&nbsp;<em>tetsakan<\/em>, though most are expat culture buffs or those who married into Isaan families. The main event gets most crowded, so there\u2019s an insider vibe to earlier activities, like viewing the floats, preparations or minor parades, like those from Dansai\u2019s shaman house to Wat Pornchai.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">These working towns lack fancy hotels. Grotty digs in town can sell at four-star prices for those nights. Most attendees must drive 30-60 minutes, whether from Ubon or Roi Et to Yasothon, or from Loei or Phu Rua to Dansai. Loei attracted many bikers carrying tents, many clearly hiring their motorbike and camping gear to tour the mountain roads.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/me-with-a-mud-man-IMG_4752-1024x768.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-28903\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/me-with-a-mud-man-IMG_4752-1024x768.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/me-with-a-mud-man-IMG_4752-300x225.png 300w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/me-with-a-mud-man-IMG_4752-768x576.png 768w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/me-with-a-mud-man-IMG_4752-1536x1152.png 1536w, https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/me-with-a-mud-man-IMG_4752-2048x1536.png 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Isaan festivals are highly interactive.\u00a0Courtesy of Philip Cornwel-Smith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 id=\"h-resilient-revelry\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Resilient Revelry<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Major&nbsp;<em>tetsakan<\/em>&nbsp;have outgrown their original venues to halls or plazas. Anyone can buy access to grandstands, but each team\u2019s shows held there block easy movement, so strategically choose which end you wish to roam. Spectators can mingle into the processions, though selfie-takers often hog the scene. Parades last for hours, so if parts get missed due to blocked views or resting in a beer garden, there\u2019s plenty more to savour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">While tourism, tech and crowds have wrought change, an intimate sense of immersion persists. Isaan festivals remain freeform expressions of character, surprise and joy.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size wp-block-paragraph\">This twice-monthly column, Very Thai, is syndicated by River Books, publisher of Philip Cornwel-Smith\u2019s bestselling books&nbsp;<em>Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture<\/em>&nbsp;and&nbsp;<em>Very Bangkok: In the City of the Senses<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size wp-block-paragraph\">The views expressed by the author of this column are his own and do not necessarily reflect the views of&nbsp;<em>Koktail<\/em>&nbsp;magazine.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>VERY THAI: In this periodic column, author Philip Cornwel-Smith explores popular culture and the topics covered in his best-selling books&nbsp;Very Thai&nbsp;and&nbsp;Very Bangkok. Here he revisits major Isaan festivals to see how they\u2019ve withstood being wrenched from local folk rite into national showcase. Khao Phansaa Day on 30 July opens the Buddhist rainy season \u2018lent\u2019 retreat. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":33,"featured_media":28904,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[56,51],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-28846","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cultural-happenings","category-lifestyle"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v27.5 (Yoast SEO v28.5) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Tweaking Traditions\u00a0<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"VERY THAI: In this periodic column, author Philip Cornwel-Smith explores popular culture and the topics covered in his best-selling books&nbsp;Very\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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