{"id":20015,"date":"2025-10-12T10:05:17","date_gmt":"2025-10-12T10:05:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/?p=20015"},"modified":"2025-10-12T10:07:39","modified_gmt":"2025-10-12T10:07:39","slug":"next-in-fashion-ss26s-new-creative-directors","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.koktailmagazine.com\/th\/2025\/10\/12\/next-in-fashion-ss26s-new-creative-directors\/","title":{"rendered":"Next in Fashion: SS26\u2019s New Creative Directors\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"
The season changed, this recently runway, Spring\/Summer 2026 arrived with a breath of new energy. The first half of the year saw creative directors and designers swapping houses, brands reinventing themselves, and the runway turning into a battleground of vision and ego. It\u2019s a clear sign of whether they can still dress to impress and captivate the audience.<\/h5>\n\n\n\n

As the final shows drew to a close last week, one thing became clear: this season balanced classic heritage with a contemporary gaze. We list the creative directors who are making their debut this season below. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gucci<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Courtesy of Gucci <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gucci kicked things off with Demna\u2019s campaign, combining exaggerated Italian stereotypes with a reflective humour that captured authenticity through playfulness. He succeeds Sabato De Sarno, who departed after two years in the role.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dior<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Courtesy of Dior<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dior, under Jonathan Anderson, following after Maria Grazia Chiuri and Kim Jones, revealed his first women\u2019s collection, a respectful reinterpretation of modern femininity. Shrunken Bar jackets, sculptural silhouettes, and dramatic bows paid homage to the archives with contemporary elegance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Loewe<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Courtesy of Loewe<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At Loewe, despite Jonathan Anderson\u2019s departure, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez impressed with playful, surreal styling. Bikini-cardigan hybrids, sunny palettes, and leatherwork\u2013including fringed trims and molded bodices, celebrated the brand\u2019s Spanish heritage with a whimsical style.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bottega Veneta<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Courtesy of Bottega Veneta<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bottega Veneta, under Louise Trotter, the only woman currently holding a creative director role at a major luxury fashion house, combined fluid dresses with fringe tassels and tailored suiting. Innovative materials added movement and life. Quiet in form, rebellious with texture. Trotter has replaced Matthieu Blazy around the end of January 2025.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jil Sander<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni\/ Gorunway.com<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Simone Bellotti\u2019s collection fused bold colours with architectural tailoring for Jil, channeling minimalist sensibilities while offering a lighter, refined evolution from Luke and Lucie Meier (the previous creative directors)\u2019s tenure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Versace<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Courtesy of Versace<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In March, the brand announced that Donatella Versace would transition to the role of Chief Brand Ambassador, with Vitale stepping in as Creative Director. Versace, under Dario Vitale, explored sensuality and human impulses, rearticulating the house\u2019s core for contemporary life.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mugler<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Courtesy of Mugler<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mugler introduced Stardust Aphrodite, the first chapter of a trilogy of glorified clich\u00e9s. Miguel Castro Freitas, reimagined seduction, merging goddess-like and cinematic imagery into sculpted, provocative silhouettes. Neutral tones allowed the forms themselves to command attention, marking a strong debut after replacing Casey Cadwallader.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Balenciaga<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Courtesy of Balenciaga<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Balenciaga saw Pierpaolo Piccioli, who officially succeeded Demna, present his first collection as creative director. It combines archival references with Demna influences. Fringe, feathers, florals, and colour brought a rebellious yet playful spirit to the runway, complete with models in casual sandals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Maison Margiela<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Courtesy of Maison Margiela\/ Isidore Montag\/ Gorunway.com<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Maison Margiela, led by Glenn Martens, impressed with Gothic-inspired ready-to-wear featuring stitched model mouths forming the brand\u2019s signature logo. The look was eerie, almost horror-like, yet the sheer, distressed pieces, combined with plastic finishes, fascinated the audience. Martens, succeeding John Galliano as Creative Director, will continue balancing his role at Diesel alongside his new creative vision for Margiela.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jean Paul Gaultier<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Five years after Jean Paul Gaultier\u2019s retirement, the house named Duran Lantink as its permanent creative director.  His debut \u201cJunior\u201d collection revived the house\u2019s youthful 1980s club aesthetic. Classic Marini\u00e8re stripes and tattoo-on-mesh motifs were transformed into 3D optical illusions, creating visual effects that challenge perception.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chanel<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Courtesy of Chanel<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Finally, Chanel, with Matthieu Blazy at the helm, combined masculine tailoring with fluid, seductive silhouettes. Low-rise cuts added a contemporary look to classic tweeds, while fringe brought a playful touch to boyish femininity. The collection showcased tweed in versatile ways, with looks styled in more than just traditional pairings. Overall, the runway told a story that ranged from minimalist to dramatic expressions. Blazy\u2019s appointment follows Virginie Viard\u2019s departure in June 2024, after five years as creative director and nearly three decades with the house.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From surreal twists to elegant reinventions, Spring\/Summer 2026 proved that creativity, heritage, and audacity can coexist, leaving no room for a flop this season.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The season changed, this recently runway, Spring\/Summer 2026 arrived with a breath of new energy. The first half of the year saw creative directors and designers swapping houses, brands reinventing themselves, and the runway turning into a battleground of vision and ego. It\u2019s a clear sign of whether they can still dress to impress and […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":27,"featured_media":20091,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[39],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-20015","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-the-arts"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nNext in Fashion: SS26\u2019s New Creative Directors\u00a0<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The season changed, this recently runway, Spring\/Summer 2026 arrived with a breath of new energy. 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