Review

Vilas, the latest project from chef Prin Polsuk, sits within the Mahanakhon Cube. Entering through an intriguing metallic door, anticipation builds with a walk along a minimalistic corridor to the spacious dining room, with floor to ceiling windows and chef counter overlooking the open kitchen. A 12-course degustation menu changes according to seasons showcasing new themes. The foundation is creativity and complexity, Thai recipes reinvented with global ingredients, prepared with heirloom cooking techniques. With each change in menu a new country of ingredient origin is explored, anchored by Japan's deep-rooted appreciation of nature. Dishes which dazzle include a modern twist on kanom krok, Hokkaido monkfish liver ice cream in a wafer shell, an oyster salad with lemongrass and deep-fried garlic cracker and a genius combo of three-week aged salted tuna and crispy beef jerky.

An exquisite Trang style pork belly from Khon Kaen with fermented coffee and a tuna bone marrow with fiddlehead fern, adopting the pla som preserving technique of marinating, until sour stands out. The piece de resistance of Southern red curry and rice with deep-sea carabineros is magical. Mini-desserts of cured banana ice cream with rose apple powder, and strawberry with sweet fish sauce combo, a fitting end. A 50-label wine list is well curated, including natural, organic and biodynamic options plus several sakes.