Review

Thailand's emphasis on sanuk, the idea that life should be enjoyable, is a positive influence on Bangkok's dining scene. Nowhere is this commitment to levity upheld with as much joie de vivre as Vaso. Since opening, it has established itself as one of the city's most in-demand places for dining well, while savoring a relentlessly bouncy atmosphere. Indeed, with flamboyant Madrileno head chef Alvaro Ramos and his similarly outgoing Ecuadorian sidekick, Bryan Ceron, working the crowds, the atmosphere is never anything less than rambunctious. It's easy to be distracted by the pumping Euro beats, shot-pouring chefs and regular blasts of the Macarena - triggered every time a customer rings the bell. But Vaso delivers the culinary goods as ably as it starts the party. Seafood of the freshest provenance is utilized to thrilling impact in tapas such as a zingy blue belly shrimp ceviche enlivened by a chili kick. Also righteous is Galician octopus with smoky romesco sauce. A giant carabinero is cooked perfectly as deserved, while a signature arroz negro with cuttlefish nails the balance between texture and flavour. Desserts are equally compelling, with highlights including churros, a classic flan and a Basque cheesecake featuring cow's milk, goat's milk, and blue cheese. It's a decadent finale in keeping with Vaso's no-holds-barred approach.