Review

The moment you step inside Umi, the excitement of exquisite sushi begins as a familiar aroma of vinegared rice wafts through the air, transporting you to a traditional sushi restaurant in Japan. The minimalist space evokes a sense of Zen, with a simple counter that seats just nine. On the light wooden countertop, a tenugui, or Japanese-style hand towel, is placed bearing the restaurant’s name. The culinary journey begins with two Thai sushi chefs, who have honed their skills under the tutelage of a Japanese sushi master. The first dish is delicately flavoured half-cooked sujiko, salmon roe marinated in soy sauce and miso. The fresh wasabi adds a tantalising aroma heightening anticipation. Sashimi of akagai, ark shell, and hotate, scallop, is a revelation, as is katsuo, bonito seared over premium Binchotan charcoal. The slight bitterness of the enzo abalone liver paste offers a taste only found in Japanese cuisine. Nigiri sushi selection includes delicate varieties like meichi snapper, kombu-cured sea bream, pacific saury pike, both lean tuna and seared fatty tuna, and bafun sea urchin. A warm, fragrant soup, made with seared fish, bonito flakes, and ginger, gently cleanses the palate. The meal concludes with a subtly sweet salted koji-marinated green grapes and black charcoal ice cream. For those wishing to experience authentic sushi, this is not to be missed.