Review

Housed in a century-old teak mansion on the banks of the River Ping, The Service 1921 is Anantara Chiang Mai Resort’s signature restaurant, delivering the grandeur befitting its storied past. Once the British Consulate, the mansion clings tightly to its heritage – in thought and theme. Redacted documents, old books and portraits of spies line the walls, while hidden doors reveal private rooms – a sly wink to the cloak-and-dagger legacy left behind. Turning to the dossier-like menu, a contemporary grill of premium steaks, meats and fish pair well with the deep oak furnishings. appetisers make for an arresting opening act – roasted bone marrow, beef tartare, foie gras and oysters setting the stage followed by some of the city’s finest steaks, dry aged in-house for a minimum of 30 days. Topping the list sits Miyazaki wagyu, alongside an exciting series of Australian, American and local wagyu alternatives to tempt any meat lover. The 1kg Chiang Mai Nguadoi wagyu tomahawk is seriously mission-approved. The grill does a good job of serving all tastes, with a selection of red and white meat alternatives, as well as a refreshingly large number of fish and vegetable mains for what is otherwise a very meaty menu. For wine will it be a smooth glass of pinot noir or a covert rendezvous with a vintage from the cellar?