Review

The Anantara Chiang Mai Resort's signature restaurant has been re­ conceptualised with the arrival of executive chef, David Eldridge. The Service 1921 has an unrivalled location within the century old former British Consulate, now offering contemporary grill cuisine with premium steaks that fit well with the elegant wood-panelling members club ambience. Begin with a classic cocktail or glass of bubbly from an extensive list. There is a separate bar for pre or postprandial, and a small terrace to enjoy the views. The menu begins with a number of traditional steakhouse appetisers including stellar seared Hokkaido scallops with a refreshingly smoky and piquant bacon and apple vinaigrette. Beef tartare is plated with a clever bone marrow emulsion. Oysters are usually available with a twist on mignonette or the house signature prawn cocktail, elevated with avocado and caviar and a worthy recommendation. Follow with one of the dry-aged steaks. Choose a cut from striploin, ribeye or fillet and country of origin from Australia, New Zealand to Japan. An absolutely world class range of sides and sauces are on offer, the charred asparagus with burnt butter Hollandaise, porcini and truffle mashed potatoes and an intriguing bone marrow Bordelaise are all winners. Finish with a unique and polished milk tart with local honeycomb and cornflake ice cream.