Review

Situated on an island at the water's edge of the Mae Kok river is The Riverie by Katathani. The Peak Wine & Grill is located rooftop with memorable views of Chang Rai. The restaurant has a number of mini open pavilions, classily adorned with drapes, giving diners a sense of romantic intimacy, plus indoor tables. The menu features a combination of European classics alongside a range of other innovative dishes. Begin with a fragrant, blue prawn bisque or creamy asparagus soup with shrimp, almond slices cleverly drizzled with parsley oil.

Alternatively try a decadent lobe of pan-fried foie gras, accompanied by piquant roasted pumpkin foam and balsamic caviar or caesar salad, finessed to the next level with additional house-smoked strips of crispy Kurobuta bacon. An Australian wagyu ribeye competes for top status with an Argentinian tenderloin, and a mouthwatering Chilean snow fish. All served on an elegant board with a mind­ boggling choice of sauces. Favourites include a simple beurre blanc for fish, and a luscious bearnaise for steaks.

These sauces deliver. Desserts continue the theme, with a creme brulee, torched at table or a refreshing pineapple tart tatin, topped with a stellar coconut butterfly pea ice cream. The wine list is sufficient with a limited number available by glass.