Review

Housed in a characterful Sino-Portuguese townhouse, The GOAT is the brainchild of proprietor and chef Parkorn "Tan" Kosiyapong, born in the year of the goat. The dining rooms are brightly decorated, the walls adorned with vibrant paintings, the ceiling alive with an array of upturned lampshades, in a light-hearted vibe. Chef Tan prepares a themed tasting menu changing every few months, best described as modern Thai, using the finest local ingredients. The wine list offers ample selection. Menus are themed. High school begins with 7am, featuring a take on traditional soy milk breakfast, cashew milk, fish broth and Hua Hin caviar, a great start.

Followed by a reimagined school snack of squid crisps, with baby squid, grilled and fried with a sophisticated touch of black garlic. School lunch is represented by rad na, given the GOAT treatment with abalone lending sophistication to a rice noodle staple. Completing the school day would normally be Tokyo pancake from Uncle and fish or pork ball from Auntie, chef Tan impresssively recreates this treasured memory with wagyu and chilies, with rose apple and uni with smoked mackerel roe and quail egg. Many Thais will recall heading home from school with an afternoon snack, typified here with banana and chocolate, peanut and chocolate and brown butter with dates to finish.