Review

Thara Thong, translates as the river of gold, and bears a name that gracefully aligns with its location nestled along the illustrious Chao Phraya River. In this Thai culinary haven, with a teakwood pavilion adorned with meticulously hand-carved wooden ceilings, guests can recline in the teak sunken seating, cushioned with Thai triangle pillows. Live regional performances, including traditional Thai dance and the captivating Khon masked dance, unfold Thursday to Sunday. In contrast to the decor, each dish is presented in a modern style. Standouts include spicy pomelo salad with shrimps, bold and creamy beef massaman, and crispy deep­ fried whole seabass topped with aromatic herbs including ginger, lemongrass and shallots. Vegetarian recommendations include pad kaprow with deep-fried tofu, dialing up the heat with chili and hot basil. A chef signature, ped yang sauce makham of organic duck breast chargrilled with five-spice and hoisin is a modern interpretation perfectly executed and uber-fragrant. For the sweet finale, go for the traditional mango and sticky rice, or indulge in the warm and comforting bua loy, with soft, chewy pastel-hued flour dumplings in sweetened coconut milk, or tub tim krob with ruby-coloured water chestnuts in coconut milk.