Review

Now in its fifth year, Thaan continues to please with a tried-and-tested menu of contemporary European favourites centred on meaty offerings from the Jasper grill. The restaurant's hide-away location and dimly-lit elegant charm evokes an old-school Parisian bistro feel, only here both waiters and prices are somewhat friendlier. Think sophisticated surf 'n' turf and begin with a small plate of premium crab, oscietra caviar and wakame pesto-flavoured chilled cappellini, or an open sandwich starring A4 wagyu and sea urchin for a deeply satisfying taste of both barbecue and briny sea. Either signature starter makes a stunning prelude to another house special, a sublime A4 wagyu sukiyaki with soy sauce and cured egg yolk, topped with chilli and roasted garlic. Another great option is a rarely-seen hanger steak grilled to preferred pinkness and enjoyed with a spicy Thai sauce, but a uniquely innovative way to experience the meaty, full-flavoured beefiness and umami is via the Thaan specialty of moreish beef fat fried rice, extremely unctuous. Pork, lamb and poultry options from the grill are available, as are seafood specials and a selection of vegetable sides. A considered wine list with mainly Gallic bent provides ample pairing opportunities. End a complex meal on.