Review

At Thaan the confidence of the kitchen speaks through every charred edge and delicate garnish. Low lighting, dark wood and compact interiors draw focus toward each plate and the experience of flavour shaped by fire and smoke. Begin with warm sourdough and charcoal butter, a pairing that hints at the restaurant’s charred, umami, contemporary philosophy. Caviar capellini with truffle ponzu follows, with generous roe and cool noodles offering a refreshing, savoury flavour in a single bite. Sea urchin and blue crab brioche comes next, the sweetness of crabmeat meeting the brine of uni in a soft bun, with crisp chilli for dimension. The A5 wagyu and sea urchin takes it further with a mellow richness. Most come for Thai wagyu ribeye, grilled to perfect medium rare, the texture soft, the flavour clean and focused, best on its own, though jeaw and salt provide welcome contrast and variation. Wagyu fried rice, called “oh my supper”, uses Japanese rice cooked in beef fat, flecked with spring onion, finished with fresh truffle, and made brighter with optional chilli, lemon and garlic, creating a dish both casual and composed. To close, smoked cheesecake and smoked milk ice cream carry the theme of fire to the end. The wine list leans European with burgundy, bordeaux, champagne, sparkling sake and a sharp craft selection.