Review

Nestled in a small side street close to Icon Siam, Tense is not easy to stumble across. But this quaint converted house serves an inspired dining experience worth any effort. Casual dining in a relaxed homey setting, with gorgeously presented dishes on white table cloths and knowledgeable service. A hidden gem. Tense refers to the concept of travelling through time with food. Choose from three menus titled "past", "present", and "future". "Past" offers classic dishes reminiscent of childhood favourites and unadulterated comfort food. The oldie barbecue ribs an excellent example, served with a wonderfully nostalgic sauce and garlic dip. Diners can find more contemporary dishes in the "present". The signature 14-hour overnight lamb shoulder is tender and succulent, with a special coating of cooked herbs and spices. For truly new and eye-opening gastronomical experiences, the "future" offers dishes that are challenging yet rewarding. Khana Pla Kem cannot be missed. This innovative re-creation of the familiar Thai kale and salted fish dish using sourdough, oyster sauce, and kale extracts is a mind-blowing work of culinary creativity. Desserts should be ordered from this menu too. The Yang Kwa is a re-modelling of a classic Korean tea biscuit. The wine list is short, so try Tense's creations of fruit-and-herb-based signature cocktails and mocktails.