Review

In a quiet soi off Charoenkrung the unassuming entrance to Taahra belies the offering within. An intriguing, and on­ trend, concept of charcoal cooking applied to Thai dishes is served at a small chef counter in this charming venue. The vintage sound track accompanies the chef and his team creating flavourful dishes. The tasting menu begins with plates of elegantly presented bites including a modern take on khao niew moo with Spanish pork, and a deliciously moreish chicken liver tartlet.

A stellar oyster is served up with punchy sweet chili paste, the combo singing on the palate. Followed by a stand out squid dish, mhuk phad nam dum the accompanying ink sauce is velvety and piquant. A perfectly cooked charred cobia is next up with a ribbon of creamy coconut sao nam sauce alongside, a refreshing balance of sweet and sour.

Rolled ballotine of capon precedes a stunning spicy curried pigeon, and the piece de resistance of trimmed chunk of pink beef in a clever sauce reminiscent of kao lao or noodle soup. Dessert courses show culinary creativity with compositions of bua loy nam khing and a pumpkin finale of sakaya phak thong. A 30-label wine list has been carefully chosen with a tempting range available by glass.