Review

Nestled off the lobby of this New York vibe tower in Sathorn, a cave-like entrance conceals one of the most exclusive omakase restaurants in Bangkok. With only eight seats, chef Seiji Sudo offers a traditional edomae sushi omakase menu of premium ingredients. The sake offering is legendary, with chef Sudo selecting colourful sake glasses he fills with suggested pairings, including a light and fruity house sake of Junmai Daiginjo which marries perfectly with the sushi. The 15-course menu changes dependent on what delicacies arrive from Tokyo. The journey will usually begin with 10 day­ aged chutoro wrapped in seaweed from Saga. Followed by a comforting uni soup, sea urchin within, adding complexity to the flavour profile. Black throat seaperch, a sublime monkfish liver topped with Japanese watermelon pickle, the richness of the liver, creates a stand out memory. Botan shrimp aged for 3-4 days, cooked and served with its roe and entrails is indescribably luscious, fatty kinmedai or golden eyed snapper is exceptionally delicate, whilst abalone bathed in sauce made from rare black abalone liver mixed with sushi rice is a culinary triumph. A trio of maki sushi, uni, chutoro and shima ebi or grey prawn, brings the omakase to a close. Dessert of coconut pudding with green tea sauce is a simple, but perfectly executed end.