Review

Sushi Saryu, meaning sand flowing in an hourglass, offers an Edomae omakase experience defined by quiet mastery and precision. Chef Seiji Sudo, working solo, delivers a course-by-course experience allowing each ingredient to speak for itself. Rice, a blend of aged underground Japanese varietals harvested the previous season to reduce water content and enhance vinegar absorption, produces a texture anchoring the entire meal. It begins with otoro and uni soup before building toward yoki gohan, a rich, densely layered composition of hairy crab, cherry blossom shrimp, sea urchin, firefly squid, Japanese icefish, greeneye fish, shirako and Sakhalin surf clam, with a scattering of karasumi, offering creamy richness from shirako and a pleasant seafood aroma. Nodoguro sushi is a deeply flavoured interlude, while tairagai and ankimo are handled with subtlety. Awabi, placed over rice and paired with liver sauce, delivers earthiness and depth. Katsuo is served with its fishbone skewer, adding playful detail. Maze gohan, in a warm tin, combines sushi rice with seaweed and uni, topped with kinmedai, nodoguro, ikura, and wasabi. The final maki, wrapped with chutoro, uni, shima shrimp and both shima and botan roe, brings richness to a peak. Dessert is textured coconut pudding with matcha sauce and chestnut. Drinks range from green tea to rare saké. Service borders on impeccable, with attentive care paid to smallest details.