Review

Sushi Kuuya is the brainchild of chef Goji Kobayashi and partner Natwara Kobayashi. Opened a year ago in Langsuan’s Vivre, chef Kobayashi brings culinary experience from accoladed restaurants across the globe, and preservation skills learned as a fishmonger in Shizuoka from where the stunning Japanese restaurant graphic logo originated. Natwara runs front of house and has assembled an impressive range of sake to create exquisite pairings for the innovative food creations. Sushi Kuuya, meaning “let’s go eat sushi,” offers a set 16-course menu in the evening and a shorter version at weekend lunchtimes. Traditional sushi techniques are combined with modern design elements, the interior centred on a gently curved counter in light wood is minimalistic but cosy. Stellar seafood is imported from Japan, including Fukuoka, the chef’s hometown, and Hokkaido; varying seasonally. Things begin with an elegant Japanese pumpkin tofu sprinkled with ikura. Dishes dazzle with complex flavours, textures and meticulous presentation. Highlights include sashimi of wild yellow tail and aged wild bluefin tuna, otsumame of glossy amadai or sweet snapper and tasty kegani or hairy crab. Steamed abalone precedes a memorable sushi trio of uni, toro and anago. An unforgettable futomaki, is a perfect balance of negitoro, kanpyo, uni and botan ebi. Desserts of fluffy custard egg cake and mont blanc pudding sandwich a cleansing akadashi soup.