Review

It can often be tricky to find good quality traditional Thai cuisine in a contemporary setting. If you don't want to pay top dollar at Bangkok's very best restaurants, then step into one of the city's many long-running staples, the Supanniga Eating Room. Extending over a three-storey shophouse, the original branch in Thong Lor, there are others dotted across the city, remains a go-to for authentic fare in a classy setting that is never too punishing on the wallet. The venue has been around for some time now, and the interior has a pleasant vintage feel which adds to the experience.

The cooking is reliable and comforting, drawing on the culinary heritage of predominantly eastern and north­ eastern Thailand, although there are southern specialties as well. This group of restaurants, has earned a deservedly formidable reputation. Stand out dishes include the nam prik khai pu, or crab meat with chili paste, the yam pla salid tod krob, deep-fried leaf fish in a spicy salad, and an outstanding panang neua where meltingly tender beef shank combines with a rich coconut milk-infused gravy. Desserts are traditional, several with a welcome twist, such as the Thai tea panna cotta which wobbles with the best. A colourful drinks list is populated with signature blended teas, mocktails and cocktails, many with a local theme.