Review

Twins, Thomas and Mathias Suhring's tribute to German cuisine is an icon in Bangkok. Housed in a continually upgraded villa, there are few more charming dining venues. The dining room is led by the popular Simbad Leguen. The tasting menu begins with a trio of snacks followed by classic entenleber-tafel, a divine duck liver wafer. Continue with an elegant blue swimmer crab, wrapped in kohlrabi with a stylish mussel sauce, and then duck liver and smoked eel combo that the twins have made famous. Lobster and white asparagus, accompanied by morel and garden peas, is a dish that will remain etched in the memory. Perfectly executed rockfish in an exquisitely balanced lemon pepper sauce follows. The twins' signature aged duck with seasonal garnish and sauces is stellar, matched by an option of Japanese wagyu beef. Dessert of white chocolate, strawberry and rose champagne is complex and perfectly judged. And to complete the memorable experience, a glass of eggnog and pralines. The wine offering showcases old world wines, heavy on German, with gems available by glass, plus an intriguing wine pairing, coupled with a thoughtful juice pairing.