Review

When first opened Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin caused quite a stir among Thai culinary traditionalists as the application of molecular techniques to the tenets of Thai cuisine was somewhat controversial. Further challenged because the concept was an import, inspired by Copenhagen's Kiin Kiin and masterminded by Dane Henrik Yde-Andersen. Nowadays this former upstart almost feels like an institution. Head chef Chayawee Sutcharitchan employs a playful science forward approach. A perfectly spherical snow fish cake in green curry and a tom yam comes with a self-service syringe to inject liquid tofu into the broth is among the highlights in his latest bag of tricks. Underpinning this flair is a commitment to whole-hearted Thai flavours that should earn the approval of the most diehard of traditionalists. Some may contend that menu items inspired by staples like yam som o, or pomelo salad, and krapow are a tad too obvious, even though imaginatively deconstructed. But Chayawee's immense culinary talent, showcased in the exquisitely cooked and spiced wagyu, in the krapow and a gorgeously fluffy pistachio souffle partnered with a tropically fragrant smooth pandan ice cream dessert, achieves a thrilling balancing act. From an extensive wine list look for the Thai offerings to complement the dining experience. There is also a cleverly composed wine pairing.