Review

Saawaan translates to “heaven”. The man tasked with keeping cuisine standards at stratospheric levels is nicknamed after one of nature’s five elements. Originally from Phuket, chef Saritwat “Earth” Wanvichitkun draws on his southern heritage to impart his personality on Saawaan’s delivery of a multi-course tasting journey and a modern take on Thai cooking traditions including dips, charcoal grilling, boiled soups, and curries. He administers a succession of knockout blows during a tasting experience enhanced by a pairing of judiciously selected wines from France, Germany, Australia, and Chile. Fermentation traditions are honoured via a salty, tangy combination of preserved krill fish with Ratchaburi pork jowl and pineapple from Phuket. Similarly stellar is the yum or salad offering, which involves a beautifully presented layering of hairy eggplant, kasang leaves, and a dressing made from organic Nakhon Pathom eggs cleverly disguised as a yolk. Smoked southern curry with chicken, accompanied by rice steamed in, and served from a banana stalk, is a worthy finale. The highlight is arguably a stunning soup featuring Charolais beef in a rich, coconut broth elevated by palm heart and pickled shallots. Earth’s alchemy is matched by the skills of Saawaan chef pâtissier Arisa “Paper” Chongphanitkul, who confirms her reputation with a divine tiger-striped peanut and dark chocolate with a sphere of delicate vanilla ice cream.