Review

Two floors above Supanniga Eating Room, and part of the same group, Ruay Mitr elevates the Thai-Chinese khao tom kui menu, in which an array of strongly flavoured braised, fried and stir-fried dishes are eaten together with small bowls of boiled rice soup. The decor, with unfinished wood and symmetrical metal roofing, mimics a traditional khao tom shop. Pay a mere 25 baht for unlimited bowls of rice soup or plain steamed rice, then top with pungently flavoured dishes among which the following are recommended: stir-fried clams with roasted chilli paste; braised duck leg with pickled lime and vegetables, minced pork wok-fried with salted chinese olives, cabbage stir-fried in fish sauce and chillies, especially any dish containing the house crispy pork, such as wok-fried with salt and chillies or Hong Kong kale wok-fried with crispy pork.

Made on the premises, the three-layered pork belly morsels achieve the perfect balance of buttery fat and pigskin crunch. Wild-caught prawn sashimi in spicy fish sauce delights with its cool textures contrasted with acidic lime and biting chilli. Tom yum with cream prawn fat sails high above most tom yums served in the city. Drinks are kept simple, with ice-cold bia wun, beer. Korean soju, as well as Japanese shio yuzushu and umeshu, are available, along with whisky highballs.