Review

Situated within the natural forest setting of the Intercontinental Khao Yai resort and boasting a restored railcar, overlooking the scenic swan lake, one may begin the journey recalling the golden age of rail travel with a kir royal or a French 75, ideal to get in the vintage mood. The banquette seating within the railcar is highly sought after, there is also an attractive outdoor terrace for larger parties plus intimate indoor seating. The intention is formal French dining with a relatively concise a la carte menu, the cuisine refined and classical, fitting the ambience. A bread selection will precede a small amuse bouche. Appetisers range from classic hand cut Australian wagyu beef tartare, enlivened with young green chili, to traditional French onion soup, topped with gooey gruyere. Follow with a simple, steak trites, a fine striploin from Stanbroke, with tasty beef jus, or a lighter option of Asian sea bass in a coconut crust, surrounded by a creamy crustacean espuma. There is ample choice of mains, including a tempting Iberico pork and a rack of lamb accompanied by rich, yet fluffy and ever popular truffle mashed potatoes. A dessert of orange creme brulee with a chocolate madeleine is delicately scented and an enjoyable final stop. The global wine list has plenty to choose from.