Review

Bangkok is not short of venues for stellar pizza. Indeed, one of the fiercest recurring online debate topics among the city's foodie fraternity is regarding the identity of the best pies in town. For many purists, however, Neapolitan-style pizza a simple combination of fresh ingredients and a strictly regulated (by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana or AVPN) dough made from wheat flour, yeast, salt, and water, offers the ultimate in wood-fired wonderment. And this segment has been ably served over the years by Peppina, which has expanded from its original location near Phrom Phong to take in offshoots around Bangkok and other parts of the kingdom.

Renowned and burgeoning restaurateur, Paolo Vitaletti's, successful formula is clear. Adhere to the rules and then combine a base sauce made with the freshest San Marzano tomatoes with your dough to produce pies that have a pillow­ soft crust with judicious charring and offer the perfect marriage of acidity and sweetness. It's a winning approach to pizza that is enhanced by considerable flair in other areas of the extensive menu. Mains such as gnocchi with lamb ragu, and wood roasted steaks, as well as a tempting selection of salads, meanwhile, offer plenty of alternatives for those who want to balance out the pizza.