Review

Renowned French chef Guillaume Galliot, in partnership with Four Seasons Bangkok, has relaunched this riverside brasserie. Whilst the elegant interior and Côte d’Azur mood remain, the menu has received a complete makeover, now boasting a combination of classics and dishes from chef Guillaume’s childhood memories. Premium imported ingredients are in abundance, and the à la carte offering reflects the chef’s distinctive culinary philosophy, with the traditional taken to the next level by incorporating innovative touches. Begin with small bites to whet the palate, such as foie gras bouchées with duck jelly and fig marmalade. Staple dishes of beef tartare, frogs’ legs and escargots are there for those who wish; however, signatures beckon, including land and sea tartare of Australian wagyu beef with Gillardeau oysters and Kristal caviar, and hot and cold onion soup, a reimagined recipe of onion ice cream with melba toast and Parmesan atop a richly comforting onion soup. Alternatively, laksa of Alaskan king crab in a Malaysian-style curry sauce with quail egg and sprinkled with crunchy hazelnuts presents unique flavours. Fresh seafood abounds with oysters in a multitude of sizes, Brittany sole, and the specialty Boston lobster in a red butter and mint emulsion. Desserts include banana chocolate mille-feuille with cacao sorbet. The wine list is comprehensive, with many gems by the glass.