Review

Housed within the elegant heritage compound of 137 Pillars House, Palette sits within the property’s original teak homestead, once northern headquarters of the Borneo Trading Company. The setting is refined and reflects both history and modernity with dark walls and large glass-fitted windows that illuminate a colourful array of modern art, historical photos and clippings. The menu is broad, exploring Thai and Western cuisines, separated into two distinct menus that can, at times, feel awkward to mix and match. Thankfully, the attentive staff can offer thoughtful recommendations that make decision-making feel effortless and assured. The Thai menu is generous in both choice and portion size, with certain appetisers arriving on plates larger than mains. Standouts include northern-style gaeng hung lay, slow-cooked with lamb and edamame for a creative twist on a local classic, alongside a mix of simple and sophisticated dishes – all executed with equal finesse and flavour. On the Western side, grilled lamb chops and marinated snow fish steal the spotlight – the latter delicately cured, pan-seared and finished with a silky lemon cream sauce that lingers long after the last bite. The wine menu features a good balance of new and old-world wines that wait staff and bartenders from Jack Bain’s Bar – which also services the restaurant – energetically recommend based on the menu items your taste buds lean towards.