Review

Bangkok is home to numerous famed Indian restaurants, and now there is a new contender elevating Indian cuisine to the highest levels. Chef Bharath, originally from South India, oversees the kitchen team, and restaurant manager Vinod tells the stories of the various dishes served. And as the story goes, there was once a traveller who, enchanted by the coastal areas of southern India, wandered here and there collecting artefacts before settling in Goa. Nila, or blue, showcases the food and objets d’art of the region. A relaxed multi-course meal is the best approach. Amuse bouche based on street food with lentils and mixed chutney. Then a soup, vegetable or shellfish, blow-torched out of laboratory glassware at the table, with added garlic, coriander and other spices. A second course trio of tandoori big bites, piri-piri shrimp, mustard-basted chicken and Australian lamb, or banana blossom with spices, baked tofu and mixed mushrooms. For mains, chicken drumsticks with coriander and accompanying onion and tomatoes, or mixed vegetable stew slow-cooked in coconut sauce with rice bread, as just a small example of how both meat eaters and vegetarians are equally catered to. A trio of mango desserts makes for a pleasing finale. Indian beers and an extensive wine list are on offer from the impressive bar on entry.