Review

Nawa is the brainchild of Head Chef Napol “Joe” Jantraget and his wife, Pastry Chef Saki Hoshino. Nawa translates to "new," and the concept blends childhood memories with authentic 100% local ingredients painstakingly sourced from artisan suppliers across the country. The diner journey begins with a trio of premium-level appetisers, perhaps ma hor with pomelo, Thai wagyu beef larb topped with caviar, and local oysters with seasonal fruit, all exceptionally well-balanced with a thought-through order of consumption. Continue with ethereal Thai-style steamed eggs with blue crab, accompanied by crispy taro full of crab curry—the epitome of elegant sophistication. The first of two samrub arrays is next: an exceptional spicy river prawn relish, Northern Thai-style air-dried wagyu beef, a beef skewer, and fried flower with beef stuffing. There is confidence this is the very best the kitchen can deliver. Before the second samrub arrives, a middle course of either tom yum kung or a sublime pork consommé with winter melon, both brimming with flavours and textures. This is followed by spicy squid, local grouper, and an incredible preserved cauliflower with egg foam. Dessert brings citrus sorbet and kha nom sai sai, coconut custard topped with caviar, to add a hint of salt and cut through the inevitable sweetness. The wine list is extensive, and the pairing is well-matched.