Review

Nan Bei, meaning "north south" in Mandarin, sits within the Rosewood Bangkok offering regional specialities from China’s two distinct regions. The restaurant’s design was inspired by a Chinese folktale of the weaver girl and the cowherder. With their union forbidden, they meet each year by traversing a sky bridge created by magpies. Once seated, begin with a selection of dim sum. Standouts include xiao long bao dumplings of blue crab and black truffle or siu mai packed with scallops, prawns, and shiitake mushrooms. Continue with South African abalone, a speciality of chef Matthew Geng, with black truffle and broccolini, or with braised pork belly in rich brown soy sauce. Small plates include soft tofu with century eggs and garlic, drizzled in vinegar, or crispy seabass in Shanxi sweet and sour sauce. Peking duck, carved tableside and accompanied by thin pancakes, granulated sugar, sliced cucumber, leeks, and sweet bean sauce, is stellar. Select a second serving of the flesh in double-boiled duck broth, wok-fried, or as a crispy duck rack. Other mains include wok-fried wagyu tenderloin with chunks of foie gras and squirrel fish in a memorable serving. Desserts include an innovative tofu tiramisu with a moist oolong-soaked sponge and tofu ganache. The beverage list presents a concise wine offering, premium teas, and a range of combined whisky and tea servings.