Review

You can divide the history of Thai fine dining into two phases – before Nahm and after Nahm. The first Thai restaurant in London to achieve award recognition, founder David Thompson brought his flagship to the Como Metropolitan in Sathorn in 2010, and the city's never been the same. Nahm makes the most of its low-lit space, with just enough Thai accents – brick columns reminiscent of Sukhothai temples, for instance – to remind diners where they are. Chef Pim Techamuanvivit continues the tradition, with a tasting menu designed for sharing as well as a strong à la carte menu. Her style is decidedly textural, providing cunning variation on classic flavours. Smoked duck soup is served with sago pearls, and ‘som tam’ uses celtuce in lieu of green papaya. It's the sort of cuisine that pushes the envelope just a bit, not ripping it open. Indeed, many of the dishes are just down-the-line classics rendered well. Tom yum kung comes to mind – Nahm's version not groundbreaking, but exactly what a clear-broth tom yum should be. Nam prik, included on the tasting menu, is complex but precise, and should be a top priority for a la carte diners as well. Wine pairings balance the classic and creative.