Review

Marie Guimar’s story is rooted in Portuguese, Japanese, and Thai influences, in honour of Marie Guimardepina, considered the creator of the traditional trio of desserts– thong yip, thong yod, and foi thong. This is traditional Thai fine dining, focusing on fresh, organic, locally sourced ingredients that lend these heirloom recipes a new lease on life. Begin with rice noodles with southern-style crab meat curry and vegetables, delicate noodles swimming in a velvety curry that’s rich without being overpowering. The juicy chunks of crab meat are sweet and tender, bringing enough spice to remind you where you are. The thong payos set menu is ideal for those wishing to experience a little of everything. Highlights include fried soft-shell crab with chili and salt; the crab’s crisp coating gives way to moist meat elevated by the subtle heat of the chili. Crab roe dip with vegetables is creamy and packed with umami, perfect for slathering on crunchy greens. Tom yum soup with river prawn and mushroom strikes the ideal balance between sour and spicy. Desserts here nod to Marie Guimardepina’s legacy. Sticky rice dumpling in salted coconut milk is an accomplished lesson in contrasts– sweet, salty, soft, and chewy. The drinks list is simple but refreshing. Kaew morakot, a blend of pandan, bael, and honey, is herbal, mildly sweet, and cleanses the palate.