Review

Chef Pathapee “Oan” Moonkonkaew’s tribute to French gastronomy is set within a charming townhouse with cosy interconnected dining rooms. Furnishings are characterful and walls are adorned with chef Oan’s striking art choices. The comprehensive a la carte features the traditional, from appetisers of house-made ethereally light and smooth chicken liver mousse to pan-fried foie gras, dressed with apple longan balsamic reduction and red onion chutney that cuts through the rich liver. Highlights such as a flaky brik of filo, generously stuffed with tuna and runny egg yolk, reassure loyal followers of culinary prowess. Main courses include a hearty beef stroganoff, rabbit leg confit, and a precision-composed Thai-French Charolais tournedos Rossini. Tasting menus offer a contemporary option, enabling chef Oan to showcase his innovative creations. You will enjoy a smoked oyster with shallot mignonette granita and mussels with yogurt egg mousse, garlic croutons, and finished with piquant parmesan foam. A palate cleanser of jambolana plum, avocado, tomato, pepper, and beetroot, drizzled with balsamic, surprises and delights. Grill-roasted lamb rack with masala, honey, and Dijon mustard sauce dazzles. The wine list is chef Oan’s passion and is littered with wines that perfectly match the cuisine.