Review

Now a veteran of Bangkok's fine dining scene Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajoh n harnesses irrepressible enthusiasm and energy. Indeed, Le Du, the chef's debut venue, is a rare example of an established restaurant that refuses to rest on its laurels. It strikes a resounding blow for what Ton calls “progressive Thai cuisine” by combining modern techniques with bold Asian flavours. Although he is vocal about his passion for Bangkok's traditional food scene, an affection nurtured during his formative years mining the street stalls of the city's Udom Suk neighbourhood for inspiration, Chef Ton is a long way from being a traditionalist. And his flair for ripping up the rulebook has ensured that Le Du is regarded as one of the most exciting restaurants in the city, a status it retains in the eyes of discerning diners.

The chef insists the restaurant is Thai, and there's no disguising the homespun influences in dishes such as grouper flanked by a fiery southern bean curry and a dessert that complements chocolate with pandan. But Chef Ton's intuitive approach to flavour combinations and his masterful knack for plating aesthetics ensures his signature venue remains as fresh as ever. Wine pairings are offered as is a tea pairing. A comprehensive wine list is also available.