Review

L'elephant, in central Chiang Mai, sits within a quaint house with a charming terrace, Chef Oan's tribute to French gastronomy. He describes this as bistronomy, a combination of French classics given Asian touches and on occasion a contemporary update. Striking artworks adorn the walls of an elegant dining room, with private salons for larger gatherings. The wine list, heavily French, features many of the chef's favourites. There is an extensive a la carte plus tasting menu. The experience begins with a basket of warm and fluffy bread and a quenelle of compound butter, unsalted if preferred. Setting the scene for an appetizer of a lobe of foie gras with an apple and longan balsamic reduction or perhaps frogs legs with a textural ratatouille as a perfect foil for the meaty legs. The nine-course tasting menu may begin with an elegant platter of amuse bouches, including a tasty pork and chocolate brioche and a cone of rich cognac scented chicken liver parfait. Main courses range from classic tournedos Rossini to stellar beef stroganoff, accompanied by home-made fettucine. On the tasting journey, there is usually a choice of either chicken or beef, the former stuffed with foie gras, the latter in a rich red wine and mahkwan sauce. Green tea and brown rice creme brulee is an appropriate finale.