Review

Kwann opened in 2024, located on the ground floor of the NYSA hotel, with direct street access. Led by chef Napol “Joe” Jantraget, Kwann is a live-fire restaurant specialising in Thai-origin charcoal cooking, melding classic ingredients and heirloom recipes. In addition to a five-course tasting menu, there is a comprehensive a la carte menu. Beginning bites include an oyster with hot dill sauce, rose apple drizzled with palm spirit, fired sautéed green beans, kra tong thong in seaweed batter with shavings of black truffle and saw nam of grilled pineapple, coconut cream, and dried shrimp. This is followed by a memorable modern take on satay, squid on grilled brioche with black ink satay sauce, cucumber a-jad, and chili jam. Mains from the tasting menu feature grilled pork jowl, fish of the day hor mok, fire-grilled beef with nam prik, and local fish tom khem reduced stew, with fried shallots. A la carte highlights include, fire-roasted crispy pork belly with phad prik king curry sauce, and fried basil and Kwann style roasted duck, with Chinese pancakes and house-made hoisin and condiments. Desserts excel, including pineapple sorbet with pineapple vinaigrette and local citrus and coconut and corn butter ice cream with coconut meringue, coconut cake, and popcorn. The wine selection includes volcanic wines, with distinct mineral flavours attributed to the terroir.