Review

American-Japanese chef Jeff Ramsey's approach to modern kaiseki is located within the Athenee Hotel. Set menus change seasonally to ensure ingredients are the best available. Teishoku menus are offered in the evening. Diners can also chose from the a la carte menu. Don't miss the signature kin kat appetizer, a creamy foie gras and cognac in a dark chocolate shell sandwiched between crispy wafers, served cold in a red box with stylish graphics. Kani korokke offers crunchy crab croquettes alongside roast young corn, bathed in a crab miso sauce. Charcoal grilled mackerel, served with a choice of salt, miso or teriyaki seasoning, will satisfy those looking for a more traditional Japanese plate. Japanese-style steaks made with highly-rated wagyu are also available. Nagano walnut soba is a show-stopper; a croissant-shaped tangle of cold buckwheat noodles, coated in walnut paste and nanami yakumi, a chilli-fruit mixture prepared just before serving. Of the soups asari miso, made with toothsome Japanese littleneck clams and velvety miso broth, is a great choice. Burnt miso cheesecake mates hokkaido cream cheese and saikyo miso with vanilla-whipped cream and berries. Sakes and ginjos are the most appropriate beverage match for kaiseki cuisine, and the dai ginjo is highly recommended. It's best enjoyed chilled, which helps preserve its delicate floral and fruity aroma and flavours.