Review

KHAAN is where Chef Sujira ‘Aom’ Pongmorn merges the soul of street food with the sophistication of royal feasts. The name, part homage to the year of the tiger and part allusion to the Thai word for ‘to vocalise.’ The tasting menu takes diners on a gastronomic journey through Thailand. Each plate balances sweet and sour with precision, with spice that is sharp yet fleeting. Four amuse-bouches, representing different regions, includes steamed egg with crab yellow curry, enriched with turmeric oil for aromatic depth and potent flavour. Andaman tiger prawn with pickled lime and a tomalley cracker refreshes, leading into rice paddy crab with sticky rice, humble yet satisfying. Highlights include fermented Sang Yod rice with dry-aged turnip, a trio of Barron Point, Surat Thani oyster and fermented king oyster mushroom delivering distinct sensations. Locally sourced African pompano is enriched with shrubby basil and an intense Thai bisque featuring clean, deep-sea flavours. Khao Yai duck, pan-fried to crispy perfection, comes with five-spice curry and tableside stirred Paka-Um-Pun fried rice. Dessert playfully features seasonal mango with “forget husband” sticky rice and mung beans, providing varied texture in each bite. Wine pairing spans old and new worlds, from South African chenin blanc to Bordeaux to Spanish gewürztraminer, complementing the menu’s progression. An extensive wine list includes a number of rare labels.