Review

Chef Mirco Keller, at his eponymous Suan Phlu restaurant, continues to cook stunning plates of creative contemporary European dishes, inspired by his childhood. The menus, a combination of a degustation filled with options and an extensive a la carte selection, priced at prix fixe for three and four courses, a pricing philosophy setting this restaurant apart. His cooking evolves and new dishes appear, whilst diner favourites and cherished signatures remain. Begin with charred Brittany octopus in distinctive red wine butter or the legendary angus beef tartare with equally standout bell pepper hollandaise. Classics in themselves, given a modern twist of culinary genius. Berliner senfei is eggy and unctuous, with piquant beetroot and mustard, elevated with a quenelle of caviar. Main courses impress with wild halibut with sancho pepper sauce and his signature treatment of an A3 tenderloin, accompanied by a stellar gremolata. Or choosing from the journey menu, potato bread with crab soup and hijiki seaweed butter, truly memorable. Desserts continue to shine, with newly introduced quark ice cream alongside an unforgettable chocolate with hazelnut and innovative guava with aloe vera, coconut, yoghurt and nougatine. An eclectic wine list featuring many biodynamic and organic wines provides for difficult decision making best resolved through choosing the wine pairing.