Review

This is a culinary venture on a grand scale from Sid Sehgal of Indus fame on Sukhumvit soi 26. Recreating the interiors of a Rajasthan polo club, the entrance inside the Erawan Centre opens onto a cosy cocktail bar and through to a plush dining room. The menu focusses on chutneys and chaats, with a selection of main dishes from the fire pit. Specialties include rustic Mewari malai biryanis, known for delightful aromas, showcasing mutton, chicken and a stunning vegetarian version. Portions beg to be shared, this is a venue for a riot of spices, colours, and textures. Bhuna kaleji sets the stage with rich chicken liver, made surprisingly delicate by a rose cookie and candied mango chutney. Himalayan gucchi and khumb brings morel and king oyster mushrooms together in a dish that’s an elegant balance of earthiness and umami. Duck seekh kebab is tender and smoky, and the charred lobster tail steals the show with its fermented tomato base offering a burst of rich, savoury flavours. For mains, slow-cooked champaran mutton stands out, with tender goat meat falling apart in a garlic and mustard oil sauce. The accompanying gucchi pulao and chur chur chilli paratha are perfect accompaniments. To finish, Pondicherry dessert is a delight, with chocolate paired with tart cherries, while kesar falooda provides a refreshing, floral contrast.