Review

If you look up ‘Jharokha’ online, you’ll see pictures of ornamented win- dows, prominent in the Rajput Palaces of North India. That spirit of re- finement and ornamentation is reflected in the restaurant itself. Step into the intricately decorated venue inside Erawan Bangkok – long home to a rotating cast of some of Bangkok’s most innovative restaurants – and be transported to a space inspired by the sporting culture and aesthetic sensibilities of the Rajasthani nobility; polo mallet, peacocks, leather chairs and all. The contrast with the trundling BTS lines and passing commuters on the Ratchaprasong Skywalk outside makes it all the more delightful – a true only-in-Bangkok experience. As with the design, so with the food, which draws heavy inspiration from the ancient firepit ovens. Portions beg to be shared. Bhuna kaleji fills a curlicued cookie with exquisite spiced pate, Batak seekh kebab brings unexpected texture and spice to minced duck, and Champaran gosht marries slow-cooked goat in a claypot with an assortment of tangy pickles. Sop the whole thing up with a variety of naans and parathas, presented bread-basket style. Artichoke masala is the standout vegetarian dish, blending Mediterranean and Mughal flavour into a cohesive whole. Indian ice-creams and sorbets, including coconut and pink peppercorn make for a perfect palate cleansing finale.