Review

Located beachside at the InterContinental hotel, Jaras offers a masterclass in modern Thai gastronomy, rooted in sustainability and creativity. Led by chef Noi, Jaras draws inspiration from the Sukhothai era while embracing contemporary techniques and an environmental conscience. Invasive and overabundant ingredients are reimagined as culinary delicacies. Andaman sea squid is marinated in charcoal water, stir-fried in squid ink, and layered into a crisp tart with wild water mimosa. Rolls of organic pork belly are tucked into delicate cones and served upright in a pot brimming with pennywort. Zero-waste black chin tilapia kanom jeen, an invasive species, is reworked into fine noodles and paired with a pour-over bright yellow curry made from the fish’s bones and head, served with wild vegetables, crispy fish skin and scales, and a crown of black caviar seaweed harvested in Hua Hin. Phuket lobster is charcoal-grilled and paired with bitter bean sauce, garnished with fermented rapo grass and crispy lobster crackers. A side of lobster soup adds richness, while local herbs bring balance and lift. Bronze-hued plates are made from broken crockery and organic kitchen waste of oyster shells and coffee grounds. Seasonal menus printed on subtly aromatic lemongrass paper. The Thai beverage pairing showcases Monsoon Valley wines, Chalong Bay rum, and Kosapan distilled spirits, alongside Issara Estates wines from Khao Yai.