Review

Approaching its 30th year in business Gianni has moved to the impressive newly renovated Plaza Athénée, which feels like the perfect fit of style and convivial ambience. The restaurant has built up many a regular over the decades but is now also appealing to the after dinner office crowd looking to chat and relax after a day of business. Pappa is tomato and bread soup with burrata and crostini melted and mixed into a hearty thick broth. The chewy strings of cheese blend delightfully with the gooey bread dough into something special. Ask if porcini mushrooms have arrived from France in the past 24 hours and order them pan-fried with rocket salad and shaved parmesan. Seabass, with skin crisp-fried in a light clam sauce with crushed potato works for one, but if there are two takers order the whole sea bass baked in salt. A Tuscan favourite among the pastas is ricotta and spinach ravioli sprinkled with Parmesan and a garnish of wild edible flowers. A daily degustation menu is available. The meal finishes with a fruit tree and chocolates before mascarpone cheesecake with Chantilly cream. A wine wall takes pride of place, showcasing over 500 Italian labels on the list, in addition to more than 200 extras for that very special occasion. There are 49 grappas available.