Review

Some restaurants opt for culinary pyrotechnics to make an impression on diners. Others eschew bells and whistles to mount a more prolonged campaign upon the affections. Enoteca, it's fair to say, belongs firmly within the latter category. A fixture in its handsome villa tucked away down a peaceful dead-end soi like some delicious secret, the venue features near the top of the Italian fine dining standings for long term observers of Bangkok's dining scene. Its lofty reputation is testament to a combination of ambience, a selection of wine (mostly from northern Italy) that is nigh on unbeatable in the city, and the delicate touch of chef Stefano Borra who applies flair and sparkle to Italian classics, again mostly informed by the traditions of the north. The restaurant's keenly priced degustation makes a perfect primer on what makes Enoteca special. Chef selections vary seasonally as you would anticipate. But dishes such as golden onion cooked in salt filled with braised quails, smoked sea scallops with al dente vegetables, truffle soup and wagyu striploin in truffle jus with a crisp top, but meltingly yielding potato gratin are just a few signposts of the venue's unerringly positive direction. Desserts of zabaglione, hazelnut savarin and even a classic tiramisu, confirm Enoteca's deserved popularity and position.