Review

Creativity and a commitment to the Thai sense of fun, epitomize the freewheeling energy in Bangkok. So, it's hardly surprising that El Willy has proven to be such an instant smash hit in the Thai capital. Chef/owner Willy Trullas Moreno has laid down a marker with his "sexy tapas" since commandeering this fabled space. Effusive and flamboyant, the chef patrols his bijou open kitchen with a wide grin seemingly permanently fixed on his face. And his obvious love for his calling and penchant for flavours as big and bold as his personality, shines through in food that ranks among the most enjoyable in Bangkok. Whilst a la carte is available, opting for Chef Willy's set menus is the way to go. Designed for sharing, the substantial dishes arrive as a succession of knock out punches. Big hitters include an explosion de salmon y trufa, house cured smoked salmon with Greek yoghurt and truffle honey and salpicon y salmorejo, a slightly tart Andalucian cold soup that abounds with fresh shellfish. The star of the show, however, is Willy's mixed seafood paella: a creamy, garlicky, perfectly seasoned, al dente dish of wonder that would be as seductive in Valencia, the spiritual home of the dish, as here. Complete your fun filled dining experience with an irresistible Basque style cheesecake.