Review

Denkushiflori is the first overseas outpost of the collaboration between two iconic Tokyo stalwarts: Japanese restaurant Den by chef Zaiyu Hasegawa and French restaurant Florilege by chef Hiroyasu Kawate. The Bangkok kitchen is overseen by chef Susumu Shimizu, who has trained in Europe and led the kitchen in the Tokyo branch before relocating to Thailand. The restaurant located on the lower ground floor of Erawan Bangkok mall has an unassuming entrance leading to a plush counter surrounding the open kitchen. Tasting menus are available at both lunch and dinner. There is a more than sufficient wine and sake list, with curated pairings. The nine-course evening menu begins with crab cream-filled gougeres, continuing with aji fish dressed with lemon cream and soy milk foam. A sesame tofu course with celery puree is a stunning blend of flavours and textures. Highlights are many and an eggplant, Japanese aubergine, miso and curry oil creation with quail egg is memorable. Challans duck in pinenut sauce and Kagoshima wagyu A5 in claypot rice with girolles are exceptional. Attention to detail coupled with fine execution are on show throughout. The savoury draws to a close with Hokkaido scallop soup. Dessert, a duo of cream caramel with matcha cream and mochi with red bean and vanilla ice cream, is a perfect partnership of Japanese and French.