Review

The entrance, a replica of British PM's 10 Downing Street, suggests that Contento is going to be a somewhat eccentric maverick. Stepping inside is an experience, with a secluded dining room bursting with fairy lights, lemons, and intimate charm. Design choices that somehow are enchanting. You can forget you are, in fact, in Bangkok's Old Town, not an asteria in Positano.

The eclectic decor is not so surprising, considering the restaurant is owned and designed by Ou Baholyodhin, creative director turned serial restaurateur. The restaurant's subtly playful persona is also found within the drink menu, with fun cocktail names and colourful art deco illustrations. When it comes to food, however, Contento gets serious. A mouth­ watering selection of small bites fills the first page of the menu, offering an immensely smooth chicken liver pate and some refreshingly tart 'naked tomatoes'.

Artisanal pastas include a sublime truffle pappardelle and chilli crab is also a diner favourite. Pici lovers will delight in amatriciana or beef ragu, both rich in flavour and incredibly comforting. For mains, steak & fries will satisfy any carnivore, whilst chimichurri-soaked sea bass makes for a zesty seafood option. For the sweet toothed, order crepe suzette - prepared fresh and warm tableside and served with a large scoop of vanilla ice cream.