Review

Cielo launched late last year at the chic Trisara Phuket resort with high expectations. Billed as offering Mediterranean dishes showcasing local produce overlooking the beach, it has the advantage of an idyllic location. Experienced chef Worawith “Notty” Rattanachoochoke does his best to distract diners from ocean views with his picture-perfect dishes, and succeeds. Begin with an appetiser from the raw section of the menu, perhaps hand-cut Chumphon beef tartare with crispy potato and wood-fired bone marrow or refreshing red snapper ceviche, thin slices of glistening fish garnished with avocado, grape seaweed, drizzled with Phang Nga kefir, basil oil and lime. Continue with a simple but stunning grilled sardines bathed in Provence olive oil, lemon and parsley. Main dishes of Andaman-fresh whole seabream, cooked in seaweed-fennel salt crust, is everything one expects and wood-fired grilled octopus in black ink romesco shows culinary flair. Organic pork chop is roasted with white cabbage and surrounded by a punchy Trang pepper sauce. Sides of zucchini and mozzarella pie sprinkled with thyme and basil and an elegant crispy potato mille-feuille are worthy accompaniments. Desserts include Chiang Mai strawberry tart with Khao Yai vanilla ice cream or Phuket chocolate mousse with crunchy roasted macadamias. The wine list is comprehensive, with multiple choices by glass and a wide range of cocktails.