Review

Located in the heart of Yaowarat, this classic old town building has been dramatically converted by owner and chef Geravich “Mew” Mesaengnilverakul into a modern, edgy restaurant with an industrial vibe. A recently added chef table now affords diners a view of “fire-master” chef Mew at work in his open live-fire kitchen. All dishes begin here, whether cooked over wood, grilled on charcoal or smoked with hay, chef Mew alternates at will. The tasting menu changes seasonally. The meal begins with salted blue crab relish with grilled catfish and rice field greens, continuing with hay-smoked aged coral trout and fermented soybean. Next up is spicy vindaloo curry, with sugar cane smoked pork jowl, smoked yoghurt and garlic naan, a splendid adaptation. Soup arrives to counter the barrage of big flavours: a smoky dried fish soup with conch. Then goby fish, prawn and pork belly wrapped with caul fat in a tasty and elaborate roulade. This is followed by grilled mud crab curry in a crunchy, fluffy, wood-baked brioche. Dessert of watermelon sorbet with Chiang Mai cacao nobs, hay smoked mulberry, and smoked fish meringue is a fitting finale. A concise old-world wine list, and several local craft beers worthy of consideration include Thongpradit IPA, Wila Weizen and Crispy Boy.