Review

This hidden restaurant in Yaowarat has been renovated into an intimate private dining space with only 12 seats per night. The open-fire kitchen allows you to watch fire master chef Geravich “Mew” Mesaengnilverakul cooking close up. The tasting menu changes quarterly, and every dish is either grilled, boiled, charred or smoked with hay. Seasonal options highlight ingredients inspired by the forest. Chef Mew begins the experience with kaeng liang with pumpkin as a welcome soup, a hot mildly spicy broth served with crab and clam meat, complemented by the natural sweetness of roasted pumpkin. The tasting menu starts with bee larvae, raw prawns, and chili jam Thai savoury tartlets, where you mix the components yourself. Next is grilled guinea fowl served with two sauce options and crispy skin, followed by refreshing wild berries salad paired with grilled coral trout. Lamb is next, served with bambara groundnuts, wild greens and mushrooms. Then followed by river prawn accompanied by three types of seaweed, shrimp paste and calamansi. Then it’s beef and beefbrain krapow with signature sauce. Next is gaeng som tai, a southern-style dish presented in a milder version, featuring lagoon fish, wild ginger and pineapple. Barking deer cooked in curry and served with rice concludes the savouries. Dessert is egg cake served with buttered apple, wild honey