Review

Canes, in its fifth year, continues with its lab conceived seasonal fourteen-course tasting menu opening only on Saturdays and Sundays. It’s booked many weeks ahead and with good reason. While the food is still somewhat experimental the inherent flavours have moved subtly Thai wards. With seating for only 14 the staff to customer ratio is one-to-one, with chef Moss running the kitchen and chef Son taking overall charge including narration and oversight of the 5-glass fruit oriented soft drink pairing. The menu is simple with a single word for each dish, but plating and presentation is anything but. For the late summer Thai menu all ingredients are local save truffle from Australia. Each of the four one-bite canapes is assembled with precision with oyster mushroom replacing meat, corn miso adding sweetness, compressed cucumber for sourness and a sprinkle of coffee grinds for bitterness. Rice is garlic fermented, tempeh is double preserved with fungi and wrapped in a spring roll sheet. Crispy coconut pudding has coriander root added alongside white pepper, lemon grass cilantro, and coconut cream. Entrees continue the theme; cabbage includes marinated tofu, chopped quinoa, woodear mushroom, white bean mousse and stir fried morning glory. For mains, chef Son has edged the taste to his southern Thai heritage most notable in a dish called curry. Desserts are simply delicious.